Folklore tells us that in Mallorca the majority of the population lived in the country, from the country and mostly in poverty. Agricultural land was the most prized possession which was located mostly inland away from the more barren, rocky sea-side.
As is common in patriarchal culture, the most productive and fertile land was handed down from father to eldest son(s) and the least desirable land was inherited by the lesser members of the family, the women.
Until the 1950s came around Mallorca when became a luxury destination with stars such as Liza Minelli and Frank Sinatra who came and stayed at the Grand Hotel in Palma and went to Palma’s finest club, Tito’s.
Across the next 10 years, the island experienced a transformation of epic proportions with 360,000 tourists visiting the “Isla de la Calma” — the island of tranquillity — and the once undesirable land underwent a building boom to house these visitors.
The women suddenly became rich, while their older brothers continued their agricultural struggle inland. A great discord began between families. One that continues to rival siblings to this day.
I was based in the southeast, San Augustine (or Sant Agusti in Catalan) a short 15-minute drive outside of Palma. Just far enough out of the city to feel peaceful and close enough to the sea to be in that turquoise body of water within a 5-minute walk.
When people ask me for tips on places to go when they come to Mallorca, which is often, I can tell you the places I have most enjoyed. And some I will keep to myself because not everything is for everyone and some things need to remain sacred and secret.
Let me add… if you want to go anywhere outside of Palma, you will need a car.
GO: My favourite places to visit.
Sant Elm (also known as San Telmo in Spanish) is a charming coastal village in the far southwest corner of Mallorca. Mostly abandoned by locals, it is inhabited mainly by tourists and vacation homeowners.
The Sant Elm to La Trapa hike is one of the best coastal trails in Mallorca. Along the way, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of Sa Dragonera (Isla Dragonera) and the Tramuntana Mountains.
Valldemossa is a village steeped in old-world charm that lies in an idyllic valley in the midst of the Tramuntana mountains.
Deià is an idyllic village of green-shuttered, honey-coloured houses that has become a millionaires’ hideaway in the shadow of the Teix mountain, part of the Tramuntana mountain range. Although it could have been just another pretty Mallorcan village in the west of Mallorca had Robert Graves not decided to make it his home…
Fun fact: The English poet and novelist first moved here in 1932 with his mistress Laura Riding and returned in 1946 with his second wife. Muses followed, friends came to stay and, before long, Deia had established a reputation as a foreign artists’ colony. However, Graves was hardly the first to discover Deià, an 1878 guidebook noted its “collection of strange and eccentric foreigners” and it has stayed that way ever since.
Pollença in the north of the island is an ancient town of attractive narrow streets and an impressive main square, lined with cafés, restaurants and bars. It also boasts a larger and very busy market on Saturdays.
Costitx is a sleepy little village located in Mallorca’s rural es Pla region, in the heart of the island. It has its own Natural Science Museum and beautiful sights worth a visit.
Santanyí is a historic rural town famous for its gold-stone architecture. It’s charming, with quaint cobbled streets, and a majestic church and appeals to most for its slow pace of life. Market days are on Wednesdays and Saturdays and are the best day to come and soak up the atmosphere, as locals (mostly Germans) come out in full force to buy local produce.
Botanicactus is one of Europe’s largest botanical gardens, with bamboo and palm trees and dozens of varieties of cacti. These gardens were opened in 1989 in Ses Salines because of the scarcity of rain in the area. The centre of the garden is full of cacti, surrounded by Mediterranean species.
& SWIM:
Cala Deià is a tiny, cove beach just outside of the much-loved mountain village of Deia, in the heart of the Tramuntana mountains in the northwest of Mallorca.
Bugambilia is a beautiful small beach with a restaurant that serves excellent paella, where the owner and staff treat everyone as family.
Illetes Beach Club is a beach I walk across to get to the next one on my list but sometimes stop for a smoothie. It is beautiful but feels pretty built up and touristic.
Cala Comtesa is the beach I go to most as I find it the wildest and most beautiful close to home. It also has a restaurant with decent food.
Es Trenc is magical and there is also a super cute beach shack/magic forest right next to it which is amazing after the beach.
Cala Lombards a stunning cove beach in the southeast of Mallorca, near the small village, Es Llombards.
Cala s’Almonia is a beautiful inlet with limestone walls and turquoise water. No sandy beaches, but a stunning area for swimming.
DO: The most fun things to do.
Sa Fonda: in Deia, and across the island, these famous summer parties attract everyone from boho people to celebs.
Flea Markets: Mercadet de Segona Mà in Plaça de Porta Santa Catalina-Palma every second Saturday of the month, Consell Flea Market on Sundays (the best!) & Mercadillo de Son Bugadelles on Saturdays.
Vintage Stores in Palma:
Festivals: Mallorca Live Music Festival, & all the local festivals in each season.
EAT: The best places to eat in Palma.
The truth is, I never fell in love with Mallorca.
There are places that light you up and make your soul come alive. And there are places like this one, that are beautiful on the surface. But lack substance.
I found things to love about it. I adored the nature and the sea and felt connected to the land. I was fortunate enough to meet and be a part of an eclectic community. But if it weren’t for the people I befriended, I would have left after my first 6 months.
Mallorca is a very transitional place that is overflowing with tourists. In the height of summer, the energy becomes frenetic from people landing and leaving.
People — often starved of sun, relaxation and connection — come to devour as much of everything that is missing in their lives. Which leaves this island feeling depleted and devoid of soul and essence.